Full fashioned stocking and manufacture thereof



May 25, 1943. E. SOLAR. 2,320,250

FULL FASHIONED STOCKING AND MANUFACTURE THEREOF Filed Oct. 6, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet l I. E. SOLAR FULL FASHIONED STOCKING AND MANUFACTURE THEREOF May 25, 1943.

Filed Oct. '6, 1941 s Sheets-Sheet 2 May 25, 1943. l. E. SOLAR I FULL FASHIONED STOCKING AND MANUFACTURE THEREOF Filed Oct. 6, 1941 s Sheets-Sheet 3 IE so; 41?,

E'WW? Patented May 25, 1943 FULL FASHIONED STOCKING AND MANU- 1 FACTURE THEREOF Israel E. Solar, New York, N. Y., assignor to National Hosiery Mills, Inc., a corporation of Indiana Application October 6, 1941, Serial N0.-413,865

11 Claims.

This invention relates to full fashioned stockings and particularly to an improved toe construction therefor.

In the usual full fashioned stocking the forward end of the toe portion is closed by a line of looping stitches which join together the ends of the upper and sole portions of the toe fabric. Since the upper and sole portions are knit to a com mon terminal course the toe looping stitches occupy a position across the front extremity of the toe. When the stocking is worn the looping stitches are disposed across the front end of the big toe and the next adjoining toe. Such location of the toe looping is not desirable from the standpoint of comfort and is objectionable from the standpoint of appearance when worn with shoes having cutout toe areas which expose the toe looping to view.

The primary object of the invention is to over come the objections to the usual toe looping in full fashioned stockings by relocating the same in a position rearwardly offset from the extremity of the toe, preferably disposing the same-so as to lie underneath the toes where it can not be seen.

The problem of toe looping does not arise in connection with split foot full fashioned stockings wherein the sole and upper foot portions are knit as successive integral sections under a considerably different procedure from that emloyed in the manufacture of the commonly accepted form of full fashioned stocking to which the invention relates. It is a further object of the invention to relocate the toe looping rearwardly of the end extremity of the toe without making any essential change in the construction of the foot and of the foot than in the sole area. Despite the fact that the sole and upper portions are to be knit to a common terminal course in the toe, this length difference can be produced by causing the knitted fabric loops in the upper portion to be of greater length than in the sole portion throughout an appreciable lengthwise area'of the foot. The number of courses in the sole and upper portions willbe the same, but because of differences in the loopsize in different trans --method is the boarding of the stocking after its fabrication on a stocking form under conditions of heat and moisture so as to set the-fabric with the upper foot portion stretched sufi'iciently to throw the toe looping rearwardly of the toe ex tremity of the form.

The first method can be employed alone or in conjunction with the second method in connection with stockings manufactured from silk,

nylon or other types of yarn. The second method is useful in some degree in connection with silk stockings, but it is diflicult in the usual boarding operation with such stockings to permanently set the upper foot portion in its elongated form and with the toe looping as far'rearwardly as is desirable. Such second method is primarily useful in connection with stockings of nylon or similar synthetic yarns which are particularly susceptible to permanent swelling and setting under the action of heat and moisture. In the manufacture of nylon stockings a preboardingtreatment is carried out preliminary to the dyeing operation and the usual final boarding operation as fully explained in Miles Patent No. 2,157,119, dated May 9, 1939. The setting of the toe portion with the toe, looping shifted rearwardly is carried out during such preboarding operation.

The second method is explained herein because it may be used to produce an additive effect in conjunction with the first method, but the same is more fully described in my copending application Serial No. 413,866, filed October 6, 1941.

The invention will be fully understood by reference to the accompanying detailed description and the appended illustrative drawings. In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a side view of the foot portion of a single unit full fashioned stocking embodyin the invention; i

Fig. 2 is a bottom View of the forward portion of the foot portion when in position on the foot; Fig. 3 is a view of the foot portion of a full fashioned stocking embodying the invention of the type wherein the foot is knit on a separate machine from the leg and heel portions;

Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic view of a stocking.

course which may be employed in forming a stocking according to the invention under one method of producing the same;

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic view of a section of the foot portion knit with courses such as illustrated in Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a view of a full fashioned single unit stocking blank stretched out in flat condition and wherein the upper portion of the foot is of greater length than the adjoining sole portions;

Fig. 7 is an edge view of the stocking blank of Fig. 6;

Fig. 815 an enlarged view of the foot portion of a stocking blank corresponding to Fig. 6 particularly illustrating the result of forming the upper portion of the foot of greater length than the sole portions; and

Fig. 9 is a view of a stocking on a boarding form and illustrating how certain desired effects according to the invention may be obtained in the boarding operation.

In Fig. 1 the stocking I0 includes a heel portion H, upper foot portion I2, and sole portion Ill. The toe area M of the foot portion is formed with fashioning areas IS. The sole and upper portions of the foot extend to a common terminal course in the toe defined by a looping line IE as will be fully understood by reference to Fig. 6. The forward end of the toe is indicated at t in Fig. 1. In the usual stocking the toe looping line [6 will be disposed at the toe extremity and will there meet the forward end of the sole seam 2|.

According to the invention and as illustrated in Fig. l, the toe looping will be offset rearwardly from toe extremity t a sufficient distance so as not to lie across the end of the toes when the stocking is worn. As more clearly illustrated in Fig. 2 the looping is preferably so located as to lie beneath the toes.

While the upper and sole. portions of the foot are knit to a common terminal course in the toe as previously explained so as not to essentially change the construction of the footfrom the general form ordinarily employed, it is necessary that in the finished stocking there be a greater length of fabric walewise in the upper area of the greater than the sole line distance from b to e.

With such arrangement the toe looping line l6 will be disposed rearwardly of the toe tip t at point e. If the same number of courses are to be knit in the upper and lower portions of the foot including the toe, it is necessary that the knitted loops in the portions of the courses in the upper foot for some distance on each side of the center top line must be stretched to a greater length than the loops in the portions of the correspond ing courses in the sole area for a distance on each side of the bottom seam. To express the matter in another way, the sole fabric must be of denser texture with more courses per inch than the upper foot fabric. This effect may be obtained in the knitting of the stocking blank or subsequent to knitting, or at both times.

In knitting the foot portion of the stocking blank shown in Fig. 6, the position of the needle bar relative to the sinkers will be varied in different portions of the foot courses so that the length of the loops formed in the individual courses will vary from a minimum along the marginal edges of the sole portions l3 to a maximum along the center line of the upper foot portion l2. This effect may be accomplished by the use of a suitably shaped cam for controlling the position of the needle bar operating on the same principle as employed to vary the length of loops in changing from reinforced to unreinforced fabric in different portions of courses in the usual full fashioned stocking foot. The stocking of Fig. l and its blank of Fig. 6 employ a sole devoid of reinforcing yarn and knit only with the same yarn as in the upper foot portion, which type stocking has been found particularly desirable for wear decreased, and thereafter the loops between line l8 and the right edge of the sole knit to the same uniform small size as in the left sole portion. Again, by utilizing a different shaped cam there may be a gradual increase in loop size from the left sole margin continuously to the center line of the upper foot and thence a corresponding decrease in loop size from the center line over to the right sole margin. Still again, the sole portions outside the respective lines I! and I8 may be knit to uniform small size, and the upper foot portion for the full distance between lines I l and I8 may be knit to a relatively large size.

In Fig. 6 is indicated a course 0 at an intermediate point of the foot illustrating the practice of knitting the sole areas with a uniform small loop to lines I! and I8 and progressively increasing the loop size in the upper foot portion from the opposite lines I! and I8 inwardly towards the center line. Courses so formed will be of the general character diagrammatically indicatedin Fig. 4 wherein the loops of the opposite sole areas s and s' are the same and the loops in the upper foot portion u progressively increase in length inwardly towards the center.

The special formation of courses in the foot may begin at line 11-11 in'Fig. 6 at the apex of the heel, at the forward end of the instepat line i-i, or at some intermediate point between lines 1/'J and i-i. This special course formation may be started forwardly of the instep, but the nearer the toe extremity it is begun the less will be the difference in length between the upper foot portion and the sole portions, and the less rearwardly will the toe looping be thrown from the forward toe extremity.

It will be apparent that by continuing to knit courses of the character indicated forwardly through the foot a progressively increasing length difference will be obtained between the upper foot portion and the sole portions as indicated diagrammatically in Fig. 5. In such view it is assumed that the special formation of courses with loops of varying size is started at a beginning course along line .t-x. By the time course 0 is reached the difference in length between the center line m of the upper foot portion and the sole edges n will be equal to d. As

each further course is added this difference will be increasingly great. In course the difference in length between the center of the foot portion at line 1n and the sole edge will have increased to d. The greater the total number of courses added the greater-will be the length difference of the top line between a and e and the sole seaming line b and e of the stocking in Fig. .1.

The stocking blank .as shown in Fig. 6 is assumed to be stretched out in flat form, and it will be observed that the terminal end I6 of the toe portion, also the loopers courses l9, assume an arcuate form. Actually the toe portion of the foot as a result of the special knitting as here explained assumes a cupped form. This is illustrated in Figs. 7 and 8 wherein the cup portion is indicated at 20. As particularly noted in Fig. 8 the looping line 16 does not lie at the extremity ofthe toe but is offset rearwardly therefrom. When the stocking is looped along line l6 and seamed along the edges of the sole the toe will appear as in Fig. 1 with the toe looping set rearwa rdly of the toe tip t as previously described.

one-half to one inch is sufficient to throw the same to a position where it is hidden beneath the toes when the stocking is worn. This effect can be successfully obtained through the methods herein described.

While the invention has been explained in conjunction with the single unit stocking as shown in Figs. 1 and 6, it will be understood that it is equally applicable to the more conventional type of full fashioned stocking wherein the foot portion is knit on a separate machine from the leg and heel portions. In Fig. 3.is illustrated a two unit-stocking having heel portions 3|, and having a foot portion including an upper 32, sole 33 and toe 34 formed on a separate machine. The toe fashioning 35 is the same as illustrated in connection with the single unit stocking although this is not necessarily the case. Through elongation of the upper foot portion through one or both of the operating procedures hereinabove described the toe looping line 36 is displaced rearwardly from the toe extremity t By way of example it may be stated that where the foot portion is knit without reinforcing yarn the sole areas may be knit with a loop size giving 59 courses per inch, and the upper foot portion may be knit to a minimum of 56 courses per inch. The loop difference as between the sole and upper foot portion may, of course, be

varied depending upon how extreme a length.

difference is desired as between the upper and sole portions and depending also on whether or not splicing yarn is incorporated in the sole for reinforcing purposes. In the latter connection it should be explained that while the stocking shown in Figs. 1 and 6 omits foot splicing yarn, the inventive method may be employed equally well in making stockings having reinforced soles.

Another method may be employed in obtaining the length difference between the upper foot portion and the sole portions as more fully explained in my copending application Serial No. 413,866, above referred to. Such procedure consists of placing the stocking after completion and dyeing on a conventional boarding form 2| as illustrated in Fig. 9, and while the same is wet stretching the upper foot portion lengthwise towards the toe end of the form, and at the same time drawing the toe looping i6 rearwardly along the sole edge of the form, thus displacing the toe looping l6 rearwardly away from the extremity t of the stocking toe. This procedure may be followed where the stocking has been knit in the usual way, or may be employed in addition to the special manner of knitting previously explained where it is desired to obtain a rearward positioning of the toe looping greater than that obtained under the knitting procedure alone. The special-procedure inboarding will ordinarily produce only a limited effect when carried out in the usual finishing boarding operation in the case of stockings of certain yarns such as silk. However, a considerable permanent effect may be obtained in boarding stockings formed of nylon and similar synthetic yarns which are subject to swelling and stretching under appropriate conditions of heat and moisture. Such stockings are preferably preboarded preliminary to the dyeing and final boarding operations, and the stretching of the loops of the upper foot portion as explained in connection with Fig. 9 will be carried out in the preboarding stage.

It is found in practice that the rearwardly displacing of the toe looping adistance of from into the sole area.

It will be understood that while in the present application the special boarding operation is claimed only in conjunction with the special knitting operation, the boarding operation per se is disclosed and claimed in my copending application Serial No. 413,866.

I claim:

1. A full fashioned stocking wherein the toe end of the sole and upper foot portions is closed by a line of stitches, the toe looping line being spaced rearwardly of the front extremity of the toe and being located in the sole area of the toe.

2. A full fashioned stocking having sole and upper foot portions terminating in a common course in the toe area, toe looping stitches joining the ends of the sole and upper foot portions along said end course, said toe looping bein spaced rearwardly of the front extremity of the toe and being located in the sole area of the toe.

3. A full fashioned stocking having sole and upper foot portions terminating in a common course in the toe area, toe looping stitches joining the ends of the sole and upper foot portions along said end course, a bottom seam joining the marginal edges of the sole portions and at its forward end meeting the too 1000- ing, the toe looping and the forwardend of the bottom seam being spaced rearwardly of the front extremity of the toe and being located in the sole area of the toe.

4. A fullfashioned stocking having sole and upper foot portions terminating in a common course in the toe area, said upper foot portion at least in its middle area being of greater length than the length of the foot along the margins of the sole portions, and toe looping stitches joining the ends of the sole and upper foot portions along their common end course.

5. A full fashioned stocking having sole and upper foot portions terminating in a common course in the toe area, the .upper loot portion incorporating knitted loops of greater length than knitted loops in the sole portions, and toe looping stitches joining the ends of the upper and sole portions along their common terminal course.

6. A full fashioned stocking having sole and upper foot portions terminating in a common course in the toe 'area, the sole portions containing a greater number of knitted courses per unit length than the upper foot portion, and toe looping stitches joining the ends of the sole and upper ioot portions along their common terminal course in the sole area of the toe in rearwardly spaced relation to the front extremity of the toe.

7. A fiat knit lull fashioned stocking blank including sole and upper foot portions knit to a common terminal course in the toe area, the

marginal edges of the sole portions being knit to a shorter length than the upper foot portion, whereby a pocket is formed in the toe causin the said terminal course to be disposed rearwardly of the front extremity of the toe.

8. The method of making a full fashioned stocking foot blank which includes knitting a succession of courses to form the upper and sole portions of the foot, and terminating the upper and sole portions at a common course in the toe area, and varying the size of the knitted loops in different areas of the individual courses so that the upper foot portion will be of greater length than the soleportions. v

9. The method of making a full fashioned stocking foot blank which includes knitting a succession of courses to form the upper and sole portions ofthe foot, and terminating the upper and sole portions at a common course in the toe area, the knitted loops being formed of a minimum size in themarginal areas of the sole portions and increasing in size in the direction of the central area of the upper foot portion.

10. The method of makinga full fashioned stocking including knitting a stocking blank to include upper and sole foot portions having a common terminal course in the toe area, the upper foot portion being knit with loopsof greater size than loops of the sole portions whereby to render the upper foot portion longer than the sole portions, and looping the ends of the upper and sole portions along their terminal course with said looping line spaced rearwardly of the front extremity of the toe.

11. The method of making a full fashioned stocking according to claim 10 further including the steps of disposing the stocking after being completely formed on astocking form and subjecting the same to heat and moisture, stretching the upper portion of the sockingfoot lengthwise on the form and drawing the toe looping rearwardly along the sole area of the form and setting the stocking foot while so disposed on the form.

ISRAEL E. SOLAR. 

